Chiang Mai, Thailand
History & Vibe: Chiang Mai, the largest city in northern Thailand, is steeped in history. Founded in 1296, it was the capital of the independent Lanna Kingdom until 1558. Its Old City area still retains remnants of walls and moats from its history as a cultural and religious center. The city's vibe is much more laid-back and less metropolitan than Bangkok, filled with a sense of calm and spirituality.
Weather: The weather in Chiang Mai varies. The best time to visit is from November to February, during the cool season when the weather is dry and pleasant. March to May is quite hot, while the rainy season spans from June to October, bringing frequent, but usually short, showers.
Burning Season: The "burning season" in Chiang Mai typically occurs annually from late February to early April. This period is marked by agricultural burning practices in the rural areas surrounding Chiang Mai and in other parts of Northern Thailand. Farmers often burn crop residue to clear land for the next planting season, which leads to a significant increase in air pollution and smog in the region.
During the burning season, air quality in Chiang Mai can deteriorate significantly, often resulting in hazy skies and a noticeable drop in visibility. This can have implications for health, particularly for individuals with respiratory issues, allergies, or sensitivities to air pollution.
If you're planning a trip to Chiang Mai and wish to avoid the burning season, it's advisable to schedule your visit outside these months. The best time to visit, considering weather and air quality, is typically between November and February. This period is after the rainy season and before the onset of the hot and smoky conditions associated with the burning season.
Currency: The local currency is the Thai Baht (THB). It's always handy to have some cash, especially for smaller shops and street vendors.
Food: Chiang Mai is a haven for food lovers. The street food here is a must-try, with local specialties like Khao Soi (creamy coconut curry noodle soup), Sai Oua (spicy Chiang Mai sausage), and various Thai sweets. There are also numerous restaurants offering both traditional Thai and international cuisines.
Some of my Favorites:
- Khao Soi - It's great everywhere, but these are my favorites. I also prefer pork or beef over chicken leg
- Kao Soy Nimman - my fav. A lighter, but still delicious and flavorful broth
- Khao Soy Maesai
- a little stall in the Kalare Night Bazaar
- Khao-So-I
- Moo Krata - Thai Grilled Pork (or any other meats) + Hot Pot
- Mu Kratha Chang Phueak (just outside the northside of the old city) or (on Changklan Rd)
- Khao Kha Moo Chang Phuea - try this tasty street food from the "Cowboy Hat Lady" who Anthony Bourdain visited when he was in Chiang Mai
Cafes & Bars: The city is famous for its vibrant cafe scene. From traditional Thai to modern, hipster, and even cat cafes, there's something for every coffee enthusiast. At night, the city transforms, with bars and night markets offering lively and fun atmospheres.
Neighborhoods:
- Nimmanhaemida (or Nimman for short). There are many shops and trendy cafes and restaurants with international fare from around the world, a lot of condos, and a lot of other digital nomads and foreigners living there.
- North of Nimman is the Jed Yod area, which has cheaper rents but is within walking distance to Nimman.
- Santitham is also popular; it s near Nimman and the old city, more of a local/student neighborhood, much cheaper, and also is populated with shops, cute cafes, and street food galore.
- The old city is another great option; there s lots going on there too, although it is more touristy than the other aforementioned neighborhoods.
- Some people choose to live south of the city in the Changklan Road area, near the river and the night bazaar. Think bustling nightlife, full of shopping options, and some fancy hotels.
- Finally, around Central Festival is another popular area; Central Festival is a massive shopping mall, and the neighborhood around it tends to be more modern and cosmopolitan than other areas of Chiang Mai.
Activities:
- Visit historic temples like Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Sri Suphan (the Silver Temple) and Doi Suthep
- explore bustling markets such as the Night Bazaar or the Sunday Night Market on the Walking Street
- take a cooking class to learn about Thai cuisine.
- For nature lovers, there are
- learn about, feed, hike with and bathe in the river with elephants at elephant sanctuaries
- play in the Sticky Waterfalls
- national parks like Doi Inthanon are gorgeous, with so many hikes, temples, waterfalls etc
- hiking
- A moderately challenging hike is the Monk s Trail hike that starts in town, passes a jungle temple, and ends at the Doi Suthep temple.
- An easy but rewarding one is the hike to Dtaat Mook Waterfall Hike
- Lots more here or join the local whatsapp group to find hiking buddies.
Nearby Trips: Consider day trips to places like Pai, known for its scenic landscapes, or Chiang Rai for the stunning White Temple.
Visa Information: For most tourists, Thailand offers a visa exemption for stays of up to 30 days, but always check the latest visa requirements based on your nationality.
WhatsApp Groups:
Bangkok, Thailand
Overview
I'm in Bangkok a lot and often get requests from friends for recommendations. Here are some of the things I love in the city, including obvious must-do tourist activities as well as some of my personal off the beaten path favorites and day trips.
The Iconic River Route: Wat Arun & Icon Siam
My favorite temple in the city is Wat Arun. Using the MRT and the shuttle boat is a much more fun way to get there. You can rent Thai costumes for nice photo opportunities.
The Route: Take the MRT Blue Line to Itsaraphap Station, head toward the river, and catch the local shuttle boat across the water straight to Wat Arun. The towering prang (spire) covered in intricate porcelain is incredible up close.
The Pivot: On your way back, stop at Icon Siam. It s a hyper-modern, upscale mall right on the river, but the real draw is the ground floor: a massive, indoor, air-conditioned street food market. It gives you the chaotic variety of local night markets without the midday humidity. Head to the top floors before leaving for panoramic views of the Chao Phraya river.
The Grand Palace & Wat Pho
The Grand Palace is the spectacular, historic seat of the Thai kings. It is a massive, dazzling complex of gilded spires, intricate mosaics, and grand pavilions. Inside sits the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew), housing a highly revered, 14th-century Buddha statue carved from a single block of jade. Note that there is a strict dress code required (long pants and covered shoulders).
Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha) is located right next door to the Grand Palace. This temple is famous for the staggering Giant Reclining Buddha a gold-leaf-covered statue measuring 46 meters long and 15 meters high, featuring beautiful mother-of-pearl inlaid feet. It is also the birthplace of traditional Thai massage, making it a great, slightly more relaxed stop immediately after the Palace.
To see the less-polished, local side of Bangkok, book a bicycle tour on the Thonburi (west) side of the river. You ll weave through tight residential boardwalks and stand beneath the jaw-dropping Giant Gold Buddha at Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen
Talad Noi & Chinatown
Spend an afternoon exploring Talad Noi in the Creative District. It s an old maritime trading neighborhood packed with narrow alleys, crumbling Sino-Portuguese architecture, and fun street art. When the sun goes down, walk over to Yaowarat Road in Chinatown for world-class street food under neon lights that look straight out of Blade Runner.
Parks, Wildlife, & Whimsy
Go to Lumphini Park to track down the massive water monitor lizards roaming the lawns. If it's not a blistering 40 C day, take the green bridge walkway over to the adjacent Benjakitti Park to see its beautiful wetland design.
If it's Saturday or Sunday, head to Chatuchak Park to rent a cheap, delightfully clunky bicycle to people-watch. Right nearby is the local Butterfly Museum, as well as the legendary, sprawling Chatuchak Weekend Market.
Book the Cat Canal Tour at Si Yaek Cafe & Guesthouse. It requires a longer Grab ride out of the center to reach the starting canals, but booking it close to sunset offers an incredible glimpse into stilt-house river life and having cats on the boat with you is super fun.
| go to the Capybara Cafe for a coffee alongside the world's chillest giant rodents | |
| Visit the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) to escape the heat or a sudden rainy day. |
Epic Day Trips
If you want to stretch beyond the city limits, you can easily arrange transport yourself or source a local guide via booking apps like GetYourGuide:
Wat Samphran, the Dragon Temple, is a striking, 17-story pink cylindrical tower wrapped from base to top by a massive, hollow green dragon. Located in Nakhon Pathom province (about an hour's drive west of Bangkok), it is one of Thailand's most visually surreal temple structures.
- The Ascent: Instead of climbing standard stairs, you walk up to the top floors through the sloping, hollow interior of the dragon s body, leading all the way up to a panoramic viewing deck at the dragon's head.
- The Dragon: The massive beast is made of iron and fiberglass, complete with sprawling claws that clutch the sides of the pink tower and an intricate, scaled tail resting at the ground level.
- The Grounds: At the base of the tower and scattered throughout the lush, quiet temple grounds, you ll find giant statues of other animals, including a massive bronze Buddha, a giant peacock, and a large turtle you can walk inside.
The Maeklong Railway Market (Talad Rom Hub) is one of Thailand s most unique spectacles a bustling, traditional fresh market operating directly on top of active train tracks.
- The Daily Routine: For most of the day, vendors spread their umbrellas, awnings, and baskets of fresh seafood, produce, and spices right across the rails, leaving just enough room for shoppers to walk down the middle.
- The "Umbrella Pull-Down" Action: Several times a day, a warning horn blasts. In a matter of seconds, vendors calmly slide their specialized wheel-mounted stalls backward, fold up their canvas awnings, and step back.
The Train Passing: The train rolls through at a crawl, passing literally inches away from the market goods and the crowds of onlookers. The moment the last carriage clears, the awnings snap back up, the stalls slide forward, and market life instantly resumes as if nothing happened.
Ancient Siam is A massive, beautifully landscaped outdoor museum shaped like Thailand, featuring scaled replicas of historic kingdoms as well as a fantasy section with some really cool architecture. Highly visual and spread out - definitely bring a drone for aerial shots.